Full-throttle Yamaha 007-1051 User Manual Page 2

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7) Continue tapping approximately 3/4”, or until the 10x24 X 3/4 socket head will thread all the way in.
8) Remove tap and clean newly cut threaded hole with compressed air and/or WD-40.
9) Thread the 10/24 allen bolt first through a stainless washer, then through the stainless adapter plate, and then into the
threaded hole you just tapped (we suggest using 2 drops of BLUE loctite on the threads before final assembly). The bent tab
on the adapter plate should be positioned so that it engages the throttle arm when pulled by the GOLDFINGER left throttle
(SEE PHOTO B2).
10) Carefully tighten the stainless allen bolt until it is snug, then back off the tension approximately 1/4 to 1/’2 turn or until the
stainless adapter can turn freely. This will allow your GOLDFINGER to operate independently from the factory throttle.
11) Reattach the throttle cable to the eye on the internal pivot arm, then by threading it into the housing until snug.
12) Reattach lower throttle block assembly using the three Phillip screws.
C) Routing of Cable Shroud From Left Throttle to Right-Side Cable Attachment (See PHOTO C1 & C2)
(CAUTION: Your kit contains a 24” black cable housing. This cable housing MUST BE TRIMMED to the appropriate length after
trial installation for safe and proper operation.)
1) Route cable housing along handlebars and secure firmly to handlebars using supplied zip ties as shown in PHOTO C1 (try to
avoid any sharp bends which will increase cable friction). Pull the zip ties snug, but not so tight as to kink the cable, then cut
off the excess length from each zip tie. We recommend using two zip ties on each side of your handle bars in a criss-cross
manner. (see photo C1)
2) Insert the bare end of the stainless cable into the left end of the black cable housing and push all the way through until it
comes out the other end.
3) Insert the “hammerhead” cable end into the slot in the left throttle lever.
4) Insert the bare end of the stainless cable through the hole in the rounded end of the adapter plate’s barrel bolt (you may need
to loosen the allen bolt slightly to allow the cable to pass through the hole). It is very important that the cable follow as
straight a line as possible to the right side in order to reduce kinks or binding, which may cause friction.
5) With the left throttle in the fully-closed position, check to make sure chrome-capped cable housing end is pushed all the
way into the left-throttle assembly. Next, measure 1 ¼” to the LEFT from the rounded end of the barrel bolt and make a mark
on the black cable housing.
6) Before trimming cable housing, you MUST slide the stainless cable far enough into the housing so you don’t cut through the
cable itself. Use a sharp pair of diagonal cutters (dikes) to cut the cable housing. After trimming cable shroud, inspect end
for any burrs or obstructions which might need further trimming.
7) Lightly crimp the shiny chrome cable end included in your kit on to the cut end of the cable housing (regular pliers work
nicely).
8) Now, push stainless cable back through the cable housing, making sure the cable slides smoothly in and out of housing. (It
may be necessary to lightly ream the cut end with a drill bit slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the cable housing.)
9) Next, run the bare end of the cable through the large end of the rubber accordion boot, and pull the boot up until it slides on
to the chrome cable housing end see PHOTO C2.
10) Insert stainless cable through hole in the rounded end of barrel bolt. For now, leave excess cable hanging out of the end of
the barrel bolt, and do not tighten the barrel bolt allen screw yet.
11) Replace the handlebar mud shroud assembly.
C1
B1 B2
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