Full-throttle Yamaha 007-1026 User Manual download pdf (Page 2)

C) Routing of Cable From Left Throttle to Right-Side Cable Attachment (See Photos D & E)

(CAUTION: Your kit contains a black vinyl cable housing. This cable housing MUST BE TRIMMED

to the proper length during installation for safe and proper operation.)

1) In order to protect your cable from the many hazards of snowmobiling, we recommend that you route your left-

throttle-to-right-throttle cable shroud underneath the handlebar padding on models so equipped. To do this you will

first need to remove the center handlebar padding. Most snowmobile models have either zippers or a velcro

closure system which you will first need to open before removing the foam padding.

2) Push the “hammerhead” cable end of the stainless cable into the slot on the back of the GOLDFINGER left

throttle lever, then thread through the hole in the GOLDFINGER throttle perch housing as shown in photo D.

3) Insert the stainless cable bare end into the black cable housing (starting at the end with the chrome ferrule

end), then push all the way through until it comes out the other end.

4) Route the cable housing across the handlebars and through the hole in the rounded end of the

barrel bolt (you may need to loosen the short allen screw slightly to allow the cable to pass through the hole). It is

very important that the cable follow as straight a line as possible to the right side in order to reduce kinks or

binding, which may cause friction. (TIP: On our snowmobile we found it worked best to run the cable

UNDERNEATH the brake line and wiring harness on the LEFT SIDE of the handlebars, but OVER the wires and OEM throttle cables on the RIGHT

SIDE of the handlebars.)

5) Secure the newly routed cable shroud with two zip ties on the left and two on the right side of the handlebars. (SEE ARROWS IN PHOTO E.) Pull

the zip ties snug, but not so tight as to kink the cable, then cut off the excess length from each zip tie.

6) With the GOLDFINGER left throttle in the fully-closed position, check to make sure chrome-capped cable housing end is pushed all the way into the

left throttle perch assembly. Next, measure 1 ¼” to the LEFT from the rounded end of the barrel bolt and

make a mark on the black cable housing.

7) Before trimming cable housing, you MUST slide the stainless cable far enough into the housing so you

don’t cut through the cable itself. Use a sharp pair of diagonal cutters (dikes) to cut the cable housing. After

trimming cable shroud, inspect end for any burrs or obstructions which might need further trimming. (TIP: If

there is a burr inside the cable housing you can usually clear it with a drill bit or other sharp pointed tool which

is slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the cable housing .)

8) Lightly crimp the shiny chrome cable end (included in your kit) on to the cut end of the cable housing (slip-

joint pliers work nicely), then push stainless cable back through the cable housing, making sure the cable

slides smoothly in and out of housing. If there is any friction, refer to burr removal tip found in step 7.

9) Next, run the bare end of the stainless cable through the large end of the rubber accordion boot, pulling

the boot up until it slides on to the chrome cable housing end.

10) Insert stainless cable through hole in the rounded end of barrel bolt. For now, leave excess cable

hanging out of the end of the barrel bolt, and do not tighten the barrel bolt short allen screw yet. You will do

this in step D.

11) Replace the handlebar padding and vinyl cover.

3) Unplug the plastic thumb warmer connector from the wiring harness, and remove the throttle flipper

completely. Looking at the bottom side of the flipper, you will see a plastic “L”-shaped retainer holding

the thumb warmer wire. This retainer will need to be removed. (Don’t worry, the late model Yamaha

snowmobiles are currently the only snowmobiles we know of on the market which uses this retainer,

and it is completely unnecessary. Removing it will in no way affect the operation of your thumb

warmer.) Carefully pull the wire out of the retainer, and using a pocket knife (or an X-acto blade),

remove the retainer tab and the small raised dots on the bottom surface of the flipper.

4) Once you have removed the high spots, use a small piece of emery cloth (or a nail file) to smooth

the surface completely.

5) Reconnect the thumb warmer electrical plug, and reposition throttle flipper where it will go.

6) Starting from the top, insert the long allen screw first through the OEM pivot pin washer, then

through the top of throttle flipper, and then into the throttle housing pivot hole. (SEE PHOTO C.) Bolt

should then go through the bottom of throttle flipper, through a stainless washer, and finally through the

hole in the center of the stainless steel adapter plate with the bent tab end toward you. The adapter

plate tab should be pointed UP so that it fits into the space between the throttle flipper and the throttle housing.

7) Thread the nyloc nut on to the long allen screw and tighten a few turns. Your goal should be to tighten the nut just to the point where it keeps the

adapter plate from slipping around, but not so tight that the plate can’t float freely (i.e., independent of the movement of the throttle flipper). The

clearance should be approximately the thickness of a business card. Don’t worry, since it’s a locking nut it can’t vibrate off.

8) Now, hold the adapter plate with your left hand while engaging the throttle with your right hand. You should feel no friction whatsoever, yet the plate

should not wobble excessively on the bolt.

D) Left Throttle Adjustment

THE FOLLOWING IS THE MOST CRITICAL PART OF THE INSTALLATION PROCESS!

1) With the right throttle in the FULLY CLOSED position and while holding the throttle plate from moving, pull the bare cable end tightly to the right to

eliminate slack in the cable (slip-joint pliers or vice grips help to grip the cable).

2) Using the 4mm allen wrench, tighten the short allen screw into the barrel bolt to secure the cable. DO NOT TIGHTEN COMPLETELY until you are

satisfied with the adjustment of the cable (this will flatten the cable inside the barrel bolt, making it more difficult to adjust).

3) Slowly engage the left throttle (with the engine off, of course--we had to put that in for obvious legal reasons) while watching the movement of

the right-side adapter plate. If adjusted properly, the right throttle should open fully, and then CLOSE COMPLETELY when left throttle is released. If it

does not close completely, continue adjusting position of cable inside barrel bolt until throttle opens and closes fully. When satisfied with adjustment,

tighten short allen screw into barrel bolt. (NOTE: There should be one washer between the short allen screw head and the top side of the adapter

plate, and another washer between the plate and the barrel bolt. When the short allen screw is tightened completely into the barrel bolt it will secure the

cable, but there should still be a tiny bit of clearance so the barrel bolt can rotate freely without binding.) Use your best judgment so you don’t strip the

threads in the barrel bolt (we’ve never done it yet, but we’re sure someone out there might be stronger than us….)

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Full-throttle Yamaha 007-1026 User Manual Page 2

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